Into The Heart of Emptiness

Tomorrow I set off into the heart of emptiness. Two days in Coyhaique, pannier full of food , finally have cash and new brake pads that flash when applied - although may only be signaling to the condors. The profile of the climbs can be seen on www.panamerica.ch . The plan is to be make it to Cochrane in five days and Villa O´Higgins in two weeks. A handleful of other cyclists on the trail, stories of adventures crossing this marvellous terrain. Everything still working.

Seven days on the road

There is the emptiness of the steppe with the road stretching out in front to infinity. The stretch between El Bolson to Esquel was like that. Then there is the forgotten emtiness of the endless canyons or rather glaciated valleys after Futaleufu. Then there is the emptiness of of the scattered communities. I am glad I brought along four bags of oats - I could use some Spanish, an ATM and perhaps the good fortune to pass through a village when it´s open (siesta). Currently 80km north of Coyhaique in Chile -average 100km a day).

Life on the road - I start at 6am when camping and go until 8pm. I have been able to get one good meal in a day (no fuel yet for stove). I fill my water bottles from the many waterfalls. Wash clothes in the torrents rushing down the cliffs. Dry clothes on the bike and then wear them to finish drying. The sun is harsh and relentless, lips cracked and sunscreen barely works. Soaked every other day and then out comes the sun and I gradually dry out enough clothes to keep going. Bike taking a beating, brake pads half gone. Loose gravel and rocks hard to get traction.