Friday, January 8, 2010

Ruta 3 and the Atlantic Coast

Ruta 3 parallels the Atlantic coast. It is over 1000km through scrub desert and almost devoid of livestock. The stretches between towns is long and water scarce.
I took the bus from Rio Gallegos to Puerto San Julian. Magellan, Drake and Darwin all briefly stopped here. My visit was also brief, during the afternoon I sheltered in the tent from the wind. I rose at 3.30am for a possible 4 day ride to the next town, a gas station mid way would provide supplies. I covered 50km by noon. Progress uphill was slow but steady as I was partially sheltered from the wind. But had to push the bike on the downhill. Whirligigs formed funnels of dust in the distance, these would then shoot across the landscape horizontally.
Suddenly the bike and I were lifted off the ground and carried, like plastic garbage, and dumped 12 feet away. I hitched a ride in a Ford Ranger, the speedometer held steady at 140kph for the five hour ride. Dropped off in a town and took the bus to Trelew, a Welsh settlement. The explosions started early evening, between midnight and 2am the bombardment of fireworks was on all sides and continuous. The next morning a low cloud hung over the campground and the smell of burning flesh filled the air as huge slaps of beef roasted. Christmas was sizzling. I successfully biked the 125km to Puerto Madryn. More camping in wind, sand and cool temperatures. An overnight bus brought me to Buenos Aires. I biked and walked the city for four days and then peddled south 125km to the former cowtown of Chamosmus. The town dates back to the 1700s. The temps are in the 30s, the markets are full of fresh fruit and veggies and it has a 1950s look and feel that suits me just fine.