The middle section of the Camino de Santiago is on top of the mesa thru medival villages - Decameron country - with the sharp ring of church bells reminisant of spaghetti westerns. The trail down is like a narrow dry river bed. I stop for a beer mid-morning and at noon to get my pilgrim´s passport stamped (more about that later). I hurtle down the trail bouncing off rocks and ledge,the panniers provide ballast and I have the authority of gravity yelling ¨Buen Comino¨to startled perigrinos; somedays I´m just a bad-assed pilgrim with hell hounds on my trail. Stayed the night at a Benedictine monestry, a plainclothes monk handled the paperwork, no kitchen so discreet beer and bagette behind a wall.
Made it to Santiago, the 800km offroad was a blast, will stay here for three days to eat and sleep.
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